Dirty Talk on WineFar Niente Icebergs Vanish...'til next yearPosted 08/20/2008 at 02:08 AM by DirkWhat comes to mind when you think of icebergs? Practical: They are best to avoid when in a boat. (Titanic) Ice melting events aren't normally associated with wineries, but ice happens. Actually, it happens at bottling for a very good reason. It is called "cold stability." Just as we want people to be reasonably stable, we want our wines to be stable, too. I was thinking about it because of the ice at Far Niente. Have you ever left a bottle of Chardonnay in the fridge long enough that it formed little crystals in the bottle? Those are called tartrates (from potassium and sometimes calcium which combines with the tartaric acid) and are the sign of a wine that is not stable...It is perfectly natural. Some people mistake those crystals for glass in a way that can make any marketing person start to twitch. So what do twitchy sales people and icebergs have to do with each other...cold stability is what. We choose to chill the wine (if 33 degrees is "chill") for about a week before we get on with bottling. A cold tank is like a gigantic cold beer bottle in that the moisture in the air beads up on the tank. Unlike your beer, it freezes on the tank. After a week, the tanks look like they have white iceberg belly bands. If you ever see a picture of our tanks, and they have ice on them, it was taken during the summer bottling season. Sure the cellar cools down some from all that ice, but it is the sound that defines the season. Everyone upstairs knows when a tank has been emptied because they hear the crash as each layer of ice peels off the tank and bangs into the floor. I am not sure what sounds you associate with a winery, but it probably wasn't ice related. The last of the ice has vanished, but it will be back next summer when Stephanie and the crew are preparing the 2008 Chardonnay for bottling.
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About the Author
Dirk Hampson
Few winemakers realize the opportunity to build a winemaking program from the ground up, living and growing with the vineyards over two decades. Dirk
Hampson, director of winemaking and chairman at Far Niente, and sister wineries Dolce and Nickel & Nickel, counts himself among the fortunate. An
enology graduate from the University of California, Davis, Hampson honed his craft at some of Europe's greatest properties, and was the first American to apprentice at Bordeaux First Growth Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Hampson returned to the US and was appointed winemaker at Far Niente in 1983.
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